All rights reserved.
I overheard the director of the re-enactment say to the participant/actors: "Don't 'materialize' the art that you are engaging in......you are just a medium for spirit" When I saw this woman's expression, I really felt she was the embodiment of love, devotion and suffering. As an artist, the director's injunction made me stop and think..............
This Easter I traveled to the colonial town of Taxco, Mexico to relax and document the Semana Santa or Holy Week procession festivities. They are based on customs originally brought from Spain almost 500 years ago. These rituals were periodically banned for political reasons but have been regularly practiced in Taxco once a year for the past 100 years or so. One can see, hear, and sense the processions as they wind through the ancient cobblestone streets. Children dressed as angels, followed by the faithful shouldering beautifully carved religious statuses. I witnessed “penitentes” who demonstrated their faith through self-inflicted suffering.
These re-enactments and processions are an amalgamation of Spanish and pre-Columbian worship and culture. For example, the use of percussion and musical instruments, and the specific qualities of “penitente” practices have indigenous roots. The indigenous identification with Christ’s (Jews) suffering at the hands of the Romans, mirrors their own history of suffering at the hands of the conquistadors. The flagellation practices are reminiscent of those found in Aztec culture. Their use of decorations, plants (zarzamora) and materials by the “penitentes” are clear adaptations to medieval Spanish customs and ritual.
Taxco is reported to be the “Silver Center of the World” where four tons of silver a month are made into jewelry and other works of art. In the late 1920s, the charm of this colonial hillside town attracted William Spratling, a North American architect, writer and artist, and his charisma in turn made Taxco “the haunt of Bohemian American artists and literati.”
Since 9/11 they’ve been hit hard due to drastically reduced tourism and because of the increased prices of silver. These are a proud, hardworking people who are very devout in their spirituality and commitment to their families. These are part of a series of images captured in Taxco as well as Cacalotenango. I got to the later by paying a private driver to transport me there. On my return to Taxco, I was blessed by having made friends with two Univision TV cameramen who’d managed to have a police truck at their disposal.
Cacalotenango is a small agricultural town in the mountains about one hour west of Taxco. The Semana Santa Good Friday festivities and passion play are acted out authentically. The whippings, flagellations and crucifixion actually occur live in front of spectators who are warned to stay clear of the action to avoid getting hurt. True to form, the crowds (and the photographers) were constantly being harassed, pushed and shoved by the Roman centurions who were clearing the way for the procession along the “Via Dolorosa.”
At one point, a bullwhip lash meant for “Jesus” actually hit me. I didn’t really get hurt but (in my mind) I fancied myself an “artist-penitent” of sorts as I roasted in the hot sun running up and down a wide area of hills and steep walkways trying to stay close to the action.
Let me tell you, this was as real an enactment as can be, short of death. According to an indigenous penitente, who became a friend, the crucifixion was real on both hands though the feet were tied in place. Thinking about it later, I realized that because he was not actually there, he may not have known whether the piercing of the palms actually occurred on this particular occasion. But it sure looked real! As I followed the Christ figure through various phases of torture, defilement and physical injuries, there was no doubt he was actually experiencing incredible suffering, exhaustion and pain.
As a semi-lapsed Catholic convert and human being I was extremely moved by the devotion of the participants and spectators who were genuinely reliving the suffering, sacrifice and selflessness of this event.
A “penitente” told me this suffering was offered prayerfully for the well-being and healing of themselves, their families and communities. Beyond this was also an offering for national and world peace.
As an example, this indigenous “penitente” told me that he was praying for peace in Iraq and for the safety of American soldiers. Although I found these practices to be extreme and outside of my frame of experience, there was nothing fanatical or pathological about the people choosing to do this. They presented as very intelligent, discriminating, balanced and kind.
I got the sense that they were at peace with themselves and very centered. They seem to go into ecstatic meditative states that defy ones concept of human endurance and self healing. I was told elderly diabetics have healed completely after deep flagellations with lead tipped whips after exhausting processions of many miles.
About 36 hours after severe self flagellation with metal tipped whips causing severe open wounds and ripped flesh, my friend's back appeared to have only a slight purplish hematomas with unbroken skin. I accidentally touched it when we hugged and he did not feel any pain........ Had I not seen this, I wouldn't have believed it possible.
Though I don't feel moved to do what these folks do, having seen what I've seen and having developed friendships with these wonderful people, I can understand how they attune to their spirituality in this way. When I think about it, I'm amazed at the perfection, joy and abundance of spirit to be found everywhere, however alien these particular practices may have seemed at first.
I have somehow developed a faith that the "economies" of spirit are perfectly balanced and without judgement toward human spiritual development and devotion. This is part of a forthcoming series of images documenting Semana Santa (Easter) in Taxco and Cacalotenango, Mexico in April 2007.