Red silk robe, 1895–1911
Nanjing, Suzhou or Hangzhou
Blue silk vest, 1895–1911
Nanjing, Suzhou or Hangzhou
Woman’s court vest and robe Manchu women wore full length robes, while Han women dressed in jackets and skirts. With a detachable collar and wide armholes, this sleeveless vest features a pierced rock and bamboo with artemisia leaves against a patterned border. This new style of outer garment was popularly worn over a full-length robe, like the example decorated with butterflies, which in China are a symbol of longevity. The robe was owned by Der Ling (1881–1944), a lady-in-waiting for Cixi who wrote Two years in the Forbidden City, an account of her life as a courtier.*
Court
Qing emperors claimed universal power over all things spiritual and temporal. Six emperors ruled in succession between 1796 and 1912 from imperial palaces in Beijing (the Forbidden City and Summer Palaces), and from Rehe in Chengde, northeast of the capital. Three adults were followed by three children whose reigns were dominated by Empress Dowager Cixi as regent.
Representations of people at court changed dramatically with the advent of photography. While still ethnically distinct, the Manchu imperial family increasingly adopted Han-Chinese culture. As well as state religion, courtiers held their own varied beliefs. Palace fashion saw creative innovations in dress and furnishings. New forms of entertainment engaged the court, including Peking opera and contemporary dance.*
From the exhibition
China’s Hidden Century
(May 2023 – October 2023 )
China’s hidden century
Manchu armies from the northeast of China overthrew the Ming dynasty, founding the Qing dynasty and ruling China from 1644 to 1912. By 1796, the Qing ruled over one-third of all humanity and established one of the most prosperous empires in world history. In 1912 imperial rule collapsed. The dynasty’s final years were challenged by natural disasters, internal uprisings and foreign invasions.Despite this, the nineteenth century was an era of extraordinary cultural creativity, and of political, social and technological innovation, as people across China lived resourceful and resilient lives.
In 1796, the Qing ruled over one-third of all humanity and was one of the most prosperous empires in world history. By 1912 it had collapsed, bringing an end to some 2,000 years of dynastic rule and giving way to a modern Chinese republic. The Manchu dynasty that ruled at that point was challenged by internal uprisings and foreign invasion. Despite this, the 19th century was an era of extraordinary cultural creativity and of political, social and technological innovation.
In the shadow of these events lie stories of remarkable individuals – at court, in armies, among artists, in booming cosmopolitan cities and on the global stage – which this exhibition brings to life. An impressive 300 objects and paintings from 30 lenders are arranged into five themes:
The court - Six emperors ruled in succession between 1796 and 1912 – three adults were followed by three children, whose reigns were dominated by Empress Dowager Cixi as regent. Representations of people at court changed dramatically as styles were absorbed from photography, and as the Manchu imperial family increasingly adopted Han-Chinese culture
The military - Civil conflicts including the White Lotus Rebellion (1774–1805), Xinjiang wars (1820s and 1860s) and Taiping Civil War (1850–64) broke out across Qing China. International imperialism brought the Opium Wars (1840–42 and 1856–60), Sino-French War (1884–85), Sino-Japanese War (1894–95) and Boxer War (1898–1900). Disaffection led to unrest among the educated classes and the poor. As a result of warfare in their home regions, people migrated to safer cities and to the borderlands in search of food and work. This created local tensions, ethnic alienation and conflict over resources. Further civil uprisings would end the imperial era in 1912.
Artists - Even as the Qing empire found itself under exceptional pressure from violence in the 1800s, landscape paintings, fans and albums demonstrate that artistic traditions were not in decline but sat alongside more ‘modern’ art. New Western techniques such as lithography were embraced by artists trained in traditional woodblock printing design, and by new magazines and newspapers in the coastal cities. An educated gentry class mediated between the state and the people from AD 650 to 1905. As the likelihood of attaining an official job dwindled, men sought alternative forms of financial and social support, establishing new artistic and literary groups.
Urban life - By the 1850s, China's population reached a staggering 450 million but average life expectancy was just 40 years old. Fleeing conflict and in search of work many people migrated to the cities – and cosmopolitan centres such as Shanghai emerged. While life for many people was extremely difficult, some enjoyed incredible wealth.
Global Qing - Until the 1840s, Guangzhou (Canton) was the only place in China where international trade was legal and foreigners could live. Merchants in Guangzhou interacted with Europe, the Americas, Japan, Russia, Parsi merchants in South Asia and diaspora communities in Southeast Asia. The signing of the unequal Treaty of Nanjing (1842) led to more ports being forcibly opened to foreign trade. Modern technology and transport revolutionised industry and changed people’s lives. Inventions such as electricity and the new postal system transformed the way people worked and communicated. Printed media and translations of foreign books provided a two-way window onto the world through travel, industry and education.
Reformers and revolutionaries - After Japan’s victory in the Sino-Japanese War (1894–95) and the loss of Korea as a vassal state, the Qing faced further carving-up of its territory by Western imperialist forces. In response, a new national identity was sought. Army and naval weapons, uniforms and organisation were modernised. The imperial court established a series of new ministries for foreign affairs, commerce, the police and education. Beyond China, there was a diplomatic search for alternative methods of governance. However, after a violent revolution emperor Puyi abdicated in February 1912, ending 2,000 years of imperial rule.
[*British Musem]
Taken in the British Museum
